Thursday, February 12, 2009

Una Tormenta Perfecta


Hola again! I´ve got bad news and good news. The bad is that somehow I deleted all of the photos I was going to upload just now, thus the photo stolen from the Ranch website of two of the awesome gals I get to hang out with daily--Anna, daughter of two amazing instructors who are staying here for the month, and baby Sole, daughter of Tim and Robin, the Ranch´s founders. The good news is that I have another entry, this one on the crazy windstorm we experienced last week. So here´s the Rancho Mastatal Newsletter article I wrote up:

It made the front page of the Washington Post and the New York Times—two days in a row. CNN did on-site, real-time reporting round the clock within an hour of its onset. The Discovery Channel is coming out with a four part miniseries next month that will detail each nail biting, eye-widening twist and turn. And Oprah is flying out to assess the damage. Yup, the world watched with bated breath last week as a two-day windstorm racked Costa Rica, sending its worst to Mastatal.

Well, perhaps international “bated breath” is a bit of an exaggeration, but Mother Nature’s tantrum certainly demanded all of the Ranch’s energy for over 48 hours. The wind started to pick up Wednesday morning, and by the late afternoon, we were wishing we had a turbine in the front yard. As dinner preparations were underway and students were still arriving for the beginning of the month long Emergency Medical Technician course, the power flickered off and on, finally cutting out altogether.

That first night was an experience unlike any other. The afternoon winds had whisked away most of the moisture we’ve become accustomed to, leaving us in need of copious amounts of lotion, chapstick, and beer. We stood in the front yard as the wind whipped around us, entranced by an almost full moon surrounded by faint clouds and a circular rainbow of colored light. As folks started toward bed, snooze time was delayed by the need for chainsaws and muscles to cut and haul trees out of the road and off roofs.

Over in the Hankey, us interns nuzzled under the covers around 9:30 hoping to sleep through the madness. After an hour or so of what sounded like a combination tsunami and papaya attack on the roof, the folks in the upper floors and more exposed areas hauled mattresses and bedding to the main floor. But even this comforting slumber party was interrupted when normally calm Britt issued some less than loving words to a scorpion who had blown in and bitten her. A swift, Patton-like maneuver involving water bottles and broom handles ensued to dispatch the confused aggressor. Needless to say, it was a long night for all Ranchers. Sam and Alan, bunking in the main house, frantically tried to secure the shutters as the contents of the jungle were being blown inside. Instructors Dave and Andrea moved themselves and their two daughters out of the normally magical tree-house atmosphere of the Hooch and into Jeannie’s. Folks in Jeannie’s wondered if their own roof would hold as they heard the roofs of the drying pavilion and garden shed being torn apart. It was a strange night of mixed emotions: awe, fright, excitement and exhaustion.

The next day as the sun rose and the wind died down for a bit, we were stunned by the views. First, the famous La Cangreja mountain was unusually visible from almost anywhere on the property because of the vast amounts of downed leaves and trees. Secondly, everyone noticed how confused the wildlife was—Carolyn saw four (typically shy) monkeys in plain sight, and everyone commented on the multitude of strange, displaced spiders and flying bugs that seemed to make a beeline for our bodies. The destruction was even more evident though in the sad views of the Ranch’s property and Mastatal in general: whole roofs had been ripped off of many buildings (including a friend who had even tied his down to his car), a neighbor’s chicken coop was destroyed, all of the Ranch’s olive green awnings flapped freely in their new torn and mangled state, our friend Mario’s biodigester had been punctured, and trees dangled precariously on power lines. The wind blew towels, t-shirts and toothpaste out of our homes and into the forest for the lizards to enjoy, and our poor dry gardens were now heating up even more under a quilt of leaves.

Luckily, no one in the area was seriously hurt, even with similar conditions during the day and night on Thursday, including the loss of water added to no electricity. As folks at the Ranch are apt to do, though, we made the best of it. Kattia, Laura and helpers cooked delicious mac and cheese, pinto and pea soup despite rough kitchen conditions. We dove into Ranch cleanup and regular projects with gusto. And in the evenings of those two memorable days, songs from voices and guitars floated from the main house into the breezy beyond as we gave our best shot at coaxing the storm to sleep.

Wednesday, February 4, 2009

Gracias a la Madre de la Tierra, y Buen Provecho!

Right before digging into a big dinner at the Ranch, these are the words that float out into the jungle from our cob-floored dining room. Everyone looks forward to this way in which we end our full days: all staff, volunteers, students and guests gathering along both sides of a long caravan of hand-made tables, hands joined, glancing with gratitude at faces illuminated by palm oil candles and the glow of our new LED Christmas lights, perhaps sharing aloud thanks, hopes, instances of learning and humor from a full day. The moments of silence in between allow our world to sink in; the essence of chisels and lumber, rebar and dirt rubs itself into biceps and knuckles, a pleasant conversation hangs lightly on the crook of my arm, and revelations playfully tousle sunbleached hair before resting warmly upon my head.

It’s good to be here, folks. Things are rolling along, and I’m simultaneously settling in and steppin’ out. Thought you’d be interested in our daily schedule and the building where I sleep, so here are some pictures of “The Hankey” as we call it. Most of the Ranch’s buildings don’t have traditional floor to ceiling walls; none have mechanical ventilation or air conditioning units. The Hankey is a fine example of this. It’s built on a slope, and its structural members are round timbered teak logs, stripped and drawknifed by hand. The floor is hand-planed tropical cedar boards, each of the screws meticulously plugged with a dark hardwood. So many creative minds have etched their visions in the Hankey, from the flower mosaic sink and the bamboo/cedar shelf Sam and I just made, to the hand sewn privacy curtains and the bas relief tree on the main entry wall. One of the the Hankey’s long sides faces a main path, so an undulating cob half wall (which my bed is adjacent to) gives us a bit more privacy. The south-east facing back side is completely open to the forest, which delivers us sun rays strained through banana leaves and palm branches at about 5:45 every morning. Most of us get up shortly thereafter, reading, doing yoga or helping prepare breakfast, which is from 7 to 8. Then is a staff meeting, work, lunch, and knocking off sometime between 4:30 and 5:30 in order to play a bit before the sun sets around 6. Dinner is around 7, which leaves time for dominoes, ping pong, Balderdash or guitar pickin’ before folks start dropping like fruit flies into their beds around 9:30 or 10. We typically end up working 6 days a week, with Sundays as the big day off. Ah, what a satisfying way to fill a week.

Since it’s been a month since we arrived, we interns are now pretty familiar with the daily and weekly tasks—the soap making and bread baking, the garden watering, compost attending to, and of course, several meal shifts per week in which we spend 4-6 hours per meal making everything from scratch. So now that we’re comfortable with the necessities, we’ve chosen other projects to focus in on. With fellow intern Anne (also an ex-Yestermorrow intern), I’m designing the foundation system and timberframe for an outdoor bathroom up at a new residence we’re building called The Cork. The small structure will be covered by a single pitch shed roof, and will include a double vaulted composting toilet, a plumbed cold-water shower, and a plumbed sink. Luckily one of the main builders of the Cork is a mason, an easygoing, huge muscle of a man named Geoff. Geoff spends the winters here every year, and is a great teacher. The pictures of this project show that we’ve dug out the ground for a poured concrete pad as well as for a couple piers. Right now we’re in the process of contructing the wooden forms along with bamboo and rebar reinforcement.

A second focus for me has become a community outreach project at the home of Juan and Anna and their two pre-teen daughters. Anna and Juan live with family a couple days a week near Puriscal (about 2 hours away), where Juan works as a security guard. The other days they live on their rural farm near Mastatal, which is quite a hike from the main road through cowpastures and streams and hillsides. Their house is a simple two story stick frame structure, about 20’X20’ with an A-frame tin roof and no walls. The Ranch just included them in a sustainable energy institute course we hosted, which installed a small solar panel that provides them with enough electricity for four light bulbs. With fellow interns Britt, Taggert and Carolyn, I’ll be organizing a work weekend for a Ranch student group in which we’ll install siding and walls upstairs and a better wood-fired cookstove downstairs. We’ve been researching a lot of stove designs based on the rocket stove model, which, described very simply, is a fire of small tinder and twigs burning in the horizontal part of an insulated L shaped 5” stove pipe. The pot is placed directly on top of the stovepipe. The design has proved extremely successful in developing nations because it requires far less wood and creates far less smoke than an open campfire. Anna’s kitchen is currently in a corner of the bottom floor which she has partially enclosed with scrap tin roofing to keep out the wind and rain. She makes an open fire on top of a concrete topped table. The smoke is definitely detrimental to her health, so we’re all excited to build something more efficient, whether it is a metal rocket stove or a similar multi-burner stove with cob or sand and clay.

That’s all from me for now. Feel free to drop me a line via email, facebook or the comment option on this blog. As always, I think of y’all often and can’t wait to give you a big booger hug in a couple months!

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Contact Info

To reach me at the Ranch, the best way is email. Of course, I´m a big snail mail fan, but realize that it takes 3 weeks and a trip to Puriscal for us, so probably more like a month. Also, don´t send a package bigger than a shoebox or else we have to go all the way to San Jose and pay by the day for them to store it. But I still love mail!! :) So send it to:

Erin Campbell
Rancho Mastatal
Apdo 185-6000
Puriscal, San José
COSTA RICA

Also, the Ranch´s website is www.ranchomastatal.com. Lot´s of great photos and info there.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Erin En Mastatal!


Hello from Rancho Mastatal! Yes, I got here safely, flying into San Jose only a couple hours after an earthquake hit the city. It’s mind-boggling to think that I’ve been here for two weeks already—the time has flown by. So a bit more about the place I now call home: the Ranch is a sustainable living and retreat center founded by two former peace corp volunteers about 7 years ago. Tim and Robin bought 600 acres in this rural village, which is a very bumpy 1.5 hour drive northwest to Puriscal and another hour after that to San Jose. We’re only about 7 miles from the west coast of the Costa Rica, but apparently it takes over an hour to get there!

While most of you in the states are currently pulling on wool socks and wishing you could crank up the thermostat without dad noticing, Costa Ricans are enjoying their summer, the dry season. In the rainy season, which is about May through November, there’s only a couple of hours every morning before hard rain sets in for the rest of the day. So during this drier time, the kids are off school, the farmers are working hard, and we at the Ranch are building our hearts out and hosting many educational groups. For the most part, classes are facilitated by outside groups, while the Ranch provides meals and lodging, and facilitates class projects that can improve the Ranch and Mastatal. For example, the recent renewable energy course installed solar panels on several homes in the village, and an upcoming natural building course will help build a composting toilet for the Ranch. The most recent group we hosted was a 10 day medical rescue course in wilderness first response. On the last day, the interns and staff staged a “mass casualty incident” that the students did their best to respond to. At about 6 am upon hearing shrieks from the river below the ranch, the students rushed down to discover about 15 gravely injured hikers who had fallen from the mountain path above during an earthquake. My hysterical “daughter” Anna (one of the instructor’s kids with quite a flare for drama) and I were the first to greet them, demanding care for our broken arms and help to look for another family member. The students (who told us they felt genuine stress during the course of the event) proceeded to spend the next 4.5 hours finding, calming, diagnosing, treating and evacuating folks with internal bleeding, eviscerated organs, broken pelvises, shock and hypothermia. And after all that, they had to sit down and take a written exam. Wow!

In a way, I feel like mornings such as that are commonplace here at the Ranch. There’s always something new to learn, something creative to be a part of, something stunning to gawk and gasp at. Already I’ve harvested beans off a mountainside farm, jumped off a 43 ft tall waterfall, spotted toucans and sloths and lizards and snakes, washed my clothes by hand, built a shelf of bamboo and tropical cedar, stared at the bamboo, open-air “house” I live in trying to figure out how everything fits together, crafted soap out of pig fat and palm oil, and made tortillas and barbeque sauce from scratch. I am super stoked to bring some skills back to the states…one of my big projects with some other interns is to design and begin building an outdoor bathroom, complete with plumbed shower, sink, and the Ranch’s fourth composting toilet system that will yield more rich soil for our gardens. How exciting!

So the Ranch is definitely an exciting place, but also one that facilitates reflection and revelation. Once again, I find myself in a place without a TV or a nearby movie theater, surrounded by folks who know and feel a lot about many different things. Each day a good chunk of time is able to be spent reading and delving into discussions about life, beliefs and experiences. Also, the jungle wakes me up at about 5:30 or 6 every day, so I’m able to get in some good meditation time before breakfast. It’s a sure blessing to have the space and time to be centered and grounded, and to know that it’s pretty much impossible to waste my time in such a rich environment. Being surrounded by deep-thinking, fun, motivated folks facilitates all of this. We’re a diverse bunch—about 20 or so “long-termers”, about half of which are interns, the others are staff and seasonal volunteers. Luckily most of us love a good “run-around” as we call them here, so around 4:30 or 5 most days we’re able to go down to the field for a game of ultimate or soccer, or over to the community center for some basketball (though the low rafters makes for some creative shots). The sun sets around 6 on the dot every day though, so after a candlelit dinner and a round or two of Boggle or dominoes, our bodies are ready to recharge.

As I sign off, know that I think of y’all a ridiculous amount. I think being farther away has somehow made all those I love more present in my thoughts and prayers. Everything triggers a warm memory…the kitchen crew’s Ipod starts playing “Bodies in Motion” and suddenly I’m cycling through canyon lands with by B&Bers; I see a bamboo porch swing and send some good thoughts to the Hoppinski’s; I coax a laugh from Tim and Robin’s baby, Sole, and wonder how my family is doing; during a morning walk I have an uber-(UBER)-random craving for a Culver’s burger and send some lovin’ to all my camp friends…the list goes on. Look forward to more blog entries—between the food, the town, the locals, stories of sleep-talking and struggling with the language, there’s tons to tell! I’d love news from your lives and any notable current events in the states—shoot me a note via my email (erinmaureencampbell@gmail.com) or on facebook. Also, you can look at my photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/7600452@N04/sets/72157612796606857/. Until next time…

Pura Vida!
Erin

Sunday, August 17, 2008

Cycle hard, cycle long...


Ah, Sunday mornings in Waterbury, Vermont, one of the 3.5 places in this state where you can actually get cell phone reception. Laying under a tree in dappled mid-morning sun with my cell phone glued to my ear, dad mentioned that he and Murray went on a 40 mile bike ride yesterday. No kidding--so did I! How beautiful to know that all three of us were rolling through this precious world via our own power atop two spinning wheels.

Let me tell you, folks, if you haven't hopped on a bike recently, you should get your rear on a seat and experience the enlightenment that only two pedals brings. Yesterday, I went on a gorgeous ride through some of the Green Mountains near Yestermorrow. This ride had everything--great conversation, sweat, threatening thunder, grinding 5 mph uphills that give you time to ponder life, and tension-ridden adrenaline-pumping gravel downhills that shake a new vitality and resolution into your soul.

Two of my dreams someday are to live without a car, relying solely on my bike, and to be a bike messenger in a city. I'm almost positive that the latter won't ever happen due to my abhorrent sense of direction. I'm still holding out hope for the first, though. In the meantime, I ride where and when I can, and get wicked excited about folks involved in projects like those pictured above (a friend's boyfriend created this vehicle in Minneapolis) and below (I was bout ready to leave this internship and move to Northhampton when I met a gal who rides for this trash-pickup outfit).

So friends, I say it again: Cycle hard, cycle long...cycle in silence, cycle in song. Cycle through fields and by cows, cycle today--cycle now!

Saturday, August 2, 2008

For Your Viewing Pleasure...

Sadly, last the Natural Building Intensive Program at Yestermorrow came to a close last week. I spent several weeks of class and intern time with these six amazing folks and their teacher as they built the timberframe, natural walled barn that I wrote about earlier. Some of the day to day work and silliness is captured in this YouTube video entitled "Yestermorrow: Behind the Scenes".

In case you're wondering what each scene is depicting, I'll give a brief rundown: Yestercheer, sawing up trees with the Peterson portable mill (go here for another great video of Richard, our sawyer, and the Peterson), our instructor Deva gets jiggy, measuring and recutting strawbales, mixing plaster in the wheelbarrow, fun with the compressed air sprayer, "a day in the life of a natural builder", Natan finds a way to stay engaged during a lecture, blowing in cellulose insulation (made from old newspaper), demonstrating cellulose's fire resistance, hail storm, fooling around with the video rear view mirror. Special Erin appearances happen at 1:30 and 2:44. Enjoy!

Monday, July 21, 2008

Mud Pies and Moisture Dynamics...What More Could a Gal Ask For?

Well, folks, it's been awhile! I'll be surprised if anyone is still checking this blog considering my lengthy cyber-vacation. But here I am, ready to tell ya'll about my latest class: Natural Wall Systems. In a later post perhaps I'll get into the "why's"behind natural building, but for now I'll just give a short definition and then delve into the project I worked on. Natural building means constructing with earth based, renewable materials that are mainly processed on-site by the builders themselves rather than far away in a factory. Remember that timber-frame barn I helped raise several weeks ago? (Heh, if you don't, just scroll down--it was my latest blog entry.) Here's that barn again, now chock full of dirt, straw, sawdust and other wacky materials that we would never think to put in our walls nowadays. Thank goodness for wackiness...I'd much rather be throwing around mud pies than cuddling up to a pretty pink batt of fiberglass. Mmmm.

In the photo above you can see three different wall systems. The system on the doorway wall is called "light straw clay." We gathered clay from a variety of local places (quarry, riverbank), mixed it with water in a big 55 gallon drum, and then used a pitchfork to toss the soupy clay (also called clay slip) and loose straw salad-style. The slightly wet mixture was then dumped in between a double-stud wall that was enclosed with scrap pieces of plywood. After folks tamped down the straw-clay mixture, the forms were removed, revealing beautiful wall sections that held their shape. The picture to the right was taken a week after the wall was finished. There must have been grass seed in our straw bales! Luckily this is fine--there isn't enough oxygen or moisture in the wall to sustain the grass for long. Some natural builders even purposefully include grass seed in thier wall systems; they know when the walls are dry and ready to plaster when the grass is dead.


We used a second system called "wood-chip clay" on the back wall of the barn as well as each of the four outside corners. We mixed a variety of grades (sizes) of woodchips obtained from local sawyers in a concrete mixer with the clay slip. Then we simply dumped the mixture into the stud wall. We didn't tamp because the chips are heavy enough to fill the space without creating any huge air pockets (as would have happened had we not tamped down the light straw clay). Because the chips can't hold thier form in the wall, however, we lathed the inside and outside of the double stud wall (lath are the thin, narrow strips of wood) in order to hold the material in. This was by far the fastest of the three methods because of the use of the concrete mixer and because the wood chips don't compact like the straw does (thus the cavity fills faster). However, the mixer was real loud and used a bunch o gasoline--both tradeoffs in terms of sustainability...I'd love to see a bicycle powered mixer someday!

The main wall system we implemented was the straw bale walls on the east and west faces of the building. Leaving the bales intact, we squared the ends with a chainsaw and laid them longways, brick-style, in the wall cavity. We retied and separated a bale into two if we needed shorter bales. Bales were then attached to studs with long timberlock screws or polypropelene strapping. Once all the bales were in place we took a "persuader"--literally a giant wooden mallet the size of a mailbox--and pounded individual bales that stuck out until the wall was nice and plumb. Then we shaved the entire inside and outside surfaces with a chainsaw (you can use hedge clippers or a weed wacker), beveling window openings.
The key to a straw bale wall system is that it is tight--any holes or spaces are stuffed well before the plaster goes on. So that's what we did--the dark spots in the top picture are handfuls of a straw clay mixture wrung into knots and shoved in between the bales. A tight bale system means virtually no oxygen, which means no possibility of fire and no room for rodents. Yay straw!
After the natural walls were constructed, we sprayed them with clay slip. Well, before we sprayed the walls, we had a little fun with the sprayers ourselves. :) After the wall is wet down, we slapped a gooey, puddin' like consistency of clay and straw on. Usually a building will have two, three or more layers of plaster, using successively shorter pieces of straw and more refined clay and sand as you work towards the outermost layer. Often the last layer involves some sort of lime, especially in climates like the northeast where there's lots of moisture in the air. Lime is durable and also vapor permeable, meaning the wall can breathe in and out moisture. If you put a cement plaster on the wall and the wall hadn't dried out or moisture somehow got in, that moisture would have nowhere to go. The breathability of a lime plaster is an apt metaphor for the vibrancy of the natural building it covers--how meaningful to live in a building created right out in nature with one's own hands.

That's all for now! More before the summer ends.....?? Keep your fingers crossed.